There are many
adventures to be had in northern Queensland and for four-wheel drive
enthusiasts, the Bloomfield Track is number one. Providing a coastal route
between Cooktown and Cape Tribulation, the scenic and challenging drive makes a
roadtrip along this spectacular section of Queensland’s coast an attractive
option.
The Bloomfield
Track is a 30 kilometre stretch between the Aboriginal community of Wujal Wujal
and Cape Tribulation but, in order to reach it drivers must also pass through
Helenvale, so we’ll start there.
Black Mountain
National Park
Located 26
kilometres south of Cooktown, Helenvale is a small community on the edge of the
Black Mountain National Park. The park centres around an enormous mountain
formed of gigantic black granite boulders. It is a large protected area of
cultural significance to local Aborigines, but which also carries mythological
significance for non-Aboriginal locals. Over the years several tales have
emerged of people and livestock heading to Black Mountain, never to be seen
again, earning it the nickname ‘Mountain of Death’. Camping is not permitted
and there are no walking tracks in the park. The imposing mountain can be seen
from the roadside.
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| Black Mountain, Helenvale, Queensland, Australia |
Lions Den Hotel
The infamous
Lions Den Hotel is an outback pub with lots of character. The pub has been
running since 1875 and features a small shop, campsite and a swimming hole out
the back. The interior walls are covered in scribble from when miners (that
mined tin from the mountain across the road) used to write their earnings on
the wall to keep track of what they had and how much they could afford to
drink.
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| The Lion's Den Hotel, Helenvale, Queensland, Australia |
The Bloomfield
Track
Roughly 30
kilometres further south, at the Aboriginal community of Wujal Wujal, the
Bloomfield Track begins. The first point of interest is Wujal Wujal Falls,
which is one of several important waterfalls for the local indigenous
community. General access is only provided to one of the falls, as the others
are believed to be sacred sites for women only.
The Bloomfield
Track passes over the sometime steep Donovan and Cowie Ranges, crosses the
Bloomfield River, and passes through natural creek crossings. The track is only
partially sealed, the rest is red earth/mud, so is only suitable for four-wheel
drive vehicles and becomes very slippery after rain, and can even become
impassable after heavy rain.
Driving through
this pristine heritage-listed rainforest is a privilege. Environmental protests
took place against the construction of the track in the early 1980s. As you
pass through the lush rainforest and creeks, and admire the secluded beaches
and swimming holes, you can see why people wanted to protect the area.
Cowie Beach
A stop at Cowie
Beach will make you believe you are in the middle of nowhere. The vast flat
beach offers sweeping views across mangroves and out to the coral reef lying
just offshore. A few isolated mangrove trees stand in splendid isolation as you
stare out to sea.
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| Cowie Beach, Queensland, Australia |
Lookouts
It is worth
stopping at the lookouts along the way as they offer glimpses of the scenery,
not least of all one that offers a great view over Cape Tribulation, just
before you arrive.
Before you go,
make sure:
Your vehicle is a
four-wheel drive
You know how to
use the vehicle in four-wheel drive mode
You know the
current and recent weather conditions
You obey road
signs (for safety and to avoid fines)
You comply with
the alcohol limits in Wujal Wujal area
