Many visitors to
the Marseille region of Provence travel east far enough to explore the marvellous
calanques along the coastline. Some even make it far enough to appreciate
Cassis and her charms, but those that travel just a short distance further east
are rewarded with time spent in Sanary Sur Mer, which is far quieter than other more famous towns on the French Riviera, but just as pretty.
Sanary, as it is
known locally, is a beautiful fishing port, without all the crowds. The town is near Toulon, about 75 km east of
Marseille and 150km west of Nice. Sanary is a small town with a big history.
The little fishing town was founded in 1688 but the settlement here dates back
to the 1400s. Sanary is a typical example of the historic settlements along
this part of the French Mediterranean coast. Having such a long history means
Sanary has lots for visitors to see and do. Here are a few suggestions.
Sanary Tower
Standing proud in
the centre of the waterfront, and 21 metres tall, Sanary Tower dominates the
local skyline. The tower was built around 1436, as part of the town's defence system. When this was deemed no longer necessary, during the 16th Century, the tower was used as a prison and store
room. There are three levels within the tower, each displays historical
information about the tower on the walls. There are also displays of antique
artifacts found locally by divers. Visitors can climb up to the rooftop to
admire the views across town and the bay. Claustrophobics may struggle with
some of the narrow passages and low headroom on the staircases. It is fantastic to be able to explore a building this old.
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| View of Sanary Sur Mer from Sanary Tower, Provence, France |
Saint-Nazaire
Church
The church of
Saint Nazaire was constructed in the late 19th Century and features
fantastic frescos painted on just about every surface of the interior walls.
Some of the artwork is of Byzantine origin, while other works are in the
Christian orthodox style. Stepping into the unassuming and rather plain-looking
church to discover these paintings is magnificent. If you enjoy visiting churches,
there is an older chapel built on the west headland in the 16th
Century that has a large number of votive offerings, and also offers visitors a
splendid view across the bay of Sanary Sur Mer.
History of Diving
Museum
All divers should pay homage to the local pioneering divers that paved the way to make diving equipment what it is today. Those
fascinated by the pastime and the underwater world will also enjoy a visit to the Museum of Diving in Sanary.
While the museum only consists of one room, it is absolutely crammed with items
to look at. There are buoyancy control devices, masks, wetsuits and cylinders
of varying ages, as well as a selection of underwater cameras at various stages of development. There is also
lots of information about local diving pioneers, including
Frederic Dumas, Philippe Tailliez and Jacques Yves Cousteau.
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| Diving Museum, Sanary Sur Mer, Provence, France |
Follow in the
footsteps of writers in exile in Sanary
When Hitler took
power in 1933, many German and Austrian intellectuals relocated to France.
Sanary, which at that time was a small fishing village, became a meeting point
for several famous artists and writers including Thomas Mann and Lion
Feuchtwanger, giving Sanary the title ‘Secret capital of German literature.’
Commemorative plaques are displayed around town at cafes the intellectuals
frequented, villas they stayed in, and other buildings of note. A brochure
featuring a map of the locations is available from the Tourist Office.
Old Town and the
Quayside
The maze of
streets leading back a few blocks from the waterfront, mostly between the
tourist office and the tower make up Sanary’s old town. Today the cobbled and
uneven streets, among buildings painted in pastel colours with pretty shutters,
are lined with cafes and shops but as you wander it is easy to imagine the same
streets years ago.
Tourist boats
moor alongside the local fishing boats these days, and evening markets are held
on the quayside during summer. Continuing the town’s association with writers,
there is an author’s square, just back from the quayside, where local authors
sign and sell books they have written.
Historic Sanary
has lots to keep visitors entertained. Whether your interest is literary of
underwater, there is something for everyone.
