Slightly north of
Kuala Lumpur, the Batu Caves house an almost hidden complex of Hindu temples, mostly
set inside a large limestone cave system. The large, cool caves are a world away from the bustle of
Malaysia’s capital city, and a must-see if you're in the area.
Getting there
While several
tours are available, it is so easy and inexpensive to get to the Batu Caves on
public transport that it is hardly worth taking a tour. The city train departs
Kuala Lumpur’s Sentral Station, takes around half an hour and costs about US $3
per person. There is even a ‘women’s coach’ for women who want to ensure they
travel undisturbed by men! From the Batu Caves station it is a short walk to
the entrance to the temples, about 200m.
 |
| Women's coach on the train, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia |
Ground level
Walking from the
train you pass several vendors selling souvenirs, food, drinks and temple
offerings. There are also various temples along the base of the hill.
 |
| Monkey God Hanuman greets visitors off the train at Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia |
The steps and the
caves
Guarded by an
enormous statue of Lord Murugan, a tall and extremely steep staircase leads up
to the caves. The 272 steps are broken up by a few platforms where visitors can
catch their breath while dodging the local population of macaque monkeys that
patrol the staircase, looking for food to steal.
 |
| Near vertical steps up to Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia |
Once you’ve dodged
the monkeys and made it up the staircase, in the exhausting humidity, sidestep
the sprawling souvenir stall and the largest cave of the complex Cathedral Cave
(also called Temple Cave), opens up before you.
 | |
| Inside Cathedral Cave, Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia |
The Cathedral cave is huge and has an
incredibly high ceiling. Ornate Hindu shrines line the cave walls and at the
far end is (yet) another staircase.
At the top of the
innermost staircase is the highest cave containing the main temple dedicated to
Murugan. It is a modest temple structure in the middle of a smaller, but
open-aired, temple. Again, watch out for monkeys.
 |
| Murugan Temple, Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia |
There are other
caves to explore including the Dark Cave that makes an unusual move in
promoting itself by boasting it is ‘home to the world’s rarest spider’, should
that entice you. Personally, I can’t think of anything worse than a cave full
of spiders. Actually, I can, it’s a dark cave of spiders – eurrgh!
 |
| Butter wouldn't melt! Macaque monkey, Batu Caves, Malaysia |
Lord Murugan
statue
Murugan is the
Hindu God of War and is the favoured deity of Tamil Hindus in Malaysia,
Singapore and Indonesia. He is believed to reliably assist devotees when called
upon. The large statue of Murugan outside the Batu Caves is almost 43m tall,
making it the tallest in Malaysia, and the second tallest in the world. It is a
relatively new addition to the religious site, having only been completed in
2006. The statue is made of concrete and covered in gold paint.
A Religious site
While Hindus seem
very tolerant of tourists visiting the caves, it is important to remember that
the site contains religious temples, so visitors should behave respectfully. The
religious site does not charge an entry fee, and access to some areas may be
restricted at certain times. One of my favourite memories of my visit was a friendly
conversation I had with a young boy who seemed curious about me. I was equally
interested in him. He wore a yellow sarong, his head and hair had been painted
white and he laughed as tourists dodged the unwanted attention of the monkeys.
He explained to me that one of the three channels of steps had been closed for
a Hindu festival to take place.
Cover-up sarongs
are offered to visiting females wearing revealing clothing, before they enter
the complex, at the bottom of the main staircase. While shoes are worn on the
staircase and in the caves, they should be removed if you enter a temple.
The Batu Caves
are a must-see if you visit Kuala Lumpur. The majestic caves (preferably
without the spiders) are incredible structures that provide welcome cool from
the heat of the day and the Hindu shrines give the caves a spiritual atmosphere.
The colours and the artwork that go into Hindu temples never cease to amaze me.
