Home to the
Nguyen dynasty, at the time of construction, Hue’s citadel would have been a
city fit for a king. It covered about five square kilometers on the north bank
of the Perfume River and featured an imperial enclosure and the Forbidden
Purple City where only emperors, concubines and invited guests were permitted.
There were also temple compounds and residences. However, what visitors find
these days provides a rather sad reflection of the past.
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| Hue Citadel, Vietnam |
Hue’s history
Hue’s location,
about halfway down the coast of Vietnam put it very close to the demilitarized
zone. As a result of this proximity, Hue has seen much conflict over the years.
Hue suffered significant damage when the Vietnamese took on the French in 1947,
and then again during the Tet Offensive in 1968 when the north Vietnamese
bombed it before they took the city, and then the Americans bombed it to take
it back.
Interestingly,
following these conflicts, many of the historic relics in Hue were neglected
because the victorious communists saw them as an embarrassing reminder of imperial
rule and they now lie in a very poor state of repair. However, with increasing
interest from tourists, many historical areas are now being restored.
Exploring the
Citadel
The Citadel was
built in three concentric enclosures. The civic area surrounds the imperial,
which surrounds the central Forbidden Purple City. Don’t expect to be spoon-fed
the history though as very limited information is available. There is very
little signage and it can be hard to decide where you are, making the Hue
Citadel a location where a local guide can be invaluable.
Cot Co Flag Tower
Apparently the
tallest flag tower in Vietnam, the 37metre Cot Co Flag Tower has dominated
Hue’s skyline since 1809. During the Tet Offensive in 1968 the flag tower
attracted the world’s attention when it flew the National Liberation Front’s
yellow-starred banner.
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| Cot Co Flag Tower, Hue Citadel, Vietnam |
Nine deities
cannons
No city would be
complete without cannons! Nine impressive bronze cannons surround the main
entrance to the Citadel. Four represent the seasons and five the elements,
earth, fire, water, metal and wood. They are a symbol of the power and
protection afforded to the capital city.
Ngo Mon Gate
The main entrance
to the Citadel, Ngo Mon Gate, is right next to the flag tower. The gate
features five doors, the central door was for the king, the two middle doors
(either side of the central one) were for mandarins, and the outer two doors
were for soldiers. As you enter the citadel you pass two large ponds full of
big fish that follow you, hoping for a feed, as you walk along the edge.
Halls of the
Mandarins
There are two
halls, one for military mandarins and one for civic mandarins that used the
halls as dressing areas when preparing for functions. They wore ceremonial
robes, some of which are on display.
Forbidden Purple
City
The 25 acre
Forbidden Purple City was home to the queen, concubines, female servants and
court eunuchs, and the only man allowed inside was the Emperor. Trespassing by
any other male was a bad idea as it was punishable by death. There was once 60 buildings
in the area but very little of them remains today because the area was badly
damaged during the Tet Offensive.
Thai Hoa Palace
The grand throne
palace of the emperors contains a grand throne (of course!) in a large room
featuring 80 red lacquered wooden columns and golden dragons symbolising the
Nguyen Dynasty.
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| Dynastic urns, Hue Citadel, Vietnam |
Nine Dynastic
Urns
Nine of the largest
urns I have ever seen stand outside the Hien Lam Pavillion. Each of these
enormous, dark-coloured urns has tremendous presence and is for one of the
Nguyen emperors. Their power is represented in the ornate bas-relief carvings
of powerful symbols.
The Mieu
Ten Nguyen
emperors are honoured in The Mieu, which is a sort of memorial to them. Richly
decorated tall chests line a long room, displaying a photo of each emperor.
According to our guide, one emperor had over 140 children and another had none,
despite having 131 wives, due to him having contracted mumps during childhood.
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| Outside The Mieu, Hue Citadel, Vietnam |
Hung Mieu
As any sensible
chap knows, it is important to take good care of your mother. The Hung Mieu
complex was dedicated to Emeror Gia Long’s mother and father in the 19th
century and is traditionally where the Kings’ mothers lived. Ornately
decorated, the buildings feature glazed carvings on the tiled roofs and dragons
peer down from rooftops. The peaceful paved courtyard features small trees and
flowers. Between here and the Royal Palace there is a very interesting display
of historic photographs showing the Citadel and its inhabitants in their prime.
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| Hung Mieu gardens, Hue Citadel, Vietnam |
Royal Theatre
The extravagantly
decorated Royal Theatre would, in its heyday, have been an incredible venue for
entertainment. Beneath the pagoda-style roof, the building has a colourful
interior and is peppered with golden dragons.
Managing
expectations
The key to
enjoying a visit to Hue’s Citadel is to go expecting ruins. While some
buildings are still in tact, they are very few and a lot of the Citadel has
been reduced to rubble and weeds. The Citadel’s lure for tourists has been
noticed however and reconstruction efforts are ongoing but they are far from
complete. To avoid disappointment, due to the lack of information and signage
available on site, I recommend hiring a local guide to show you around the
Imperial Citadel or taking a detailed guidebook with you.
