For
the ultimate Provencal experience you can’t surpass Saint Remy de Provence. From
the tree-lined boulevard leading into town to the charming historic buildings, magnificent
local produce and reputation for having inspired Impressionist genius Vincent
Van Goph, there really are lots of things to do in Saint Remy de Provence.
Saint
Remy’s Old Town
While
slightly challenging to navigate, Saint Remy’s historic centre is charming.
Although no longer surrounded by ramparts and a moat (the moat was transformed
into the town’s ringroad), the maze of beautiful but narrow streets, decorated
with shuttered windows, shady squares and cooling fountains, is a delight to
wander around. Amidst the picturesque scenes in the heart of the old town is
the birthplace of astrologer Nostradamus, although it is understated with only
a plaque to commemorate his time in the town. The tall old town streets delight
with lively cafes that spill out onto the streets, boutique shops and food
specialty outlets such as patisseries and chocolatiers.
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| Saint Remy de Provence, square in the old town |
Specialty
foods
One
such specialty shop I defy anyone to resist is Joel Durand’s Chocolate Shop. If
the window doesn’t tempt you a quick whiff when someone opens the door will certainly
leave you drooling. The talented chocolatier has developed an alphabet of
chocolate flavours, amongst which are Provencal favourites ‘L’ for lavender and
‘V’ for violet. He delights in using Provencal ingredients such as almonds,
praline, honey, liquorice and olives, changing fillings with the seasons, to
bring fresh and local flavours to his chocolates and they are absolutely
magnificent. I have to confess, the small box we brought didn’t even make it to
the afternoon. To read more about Joel Durand’s chocolate shop click here.
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| Chocolates, Saint Remy de Provence, France |
Market
day
Another
opportunity to enjoy Provence’s fantastic fresh produce is the Wednesday
morning market, which leads from the Rue de la Republique along narrowing
streets into the old town. The fruit and vegetables will vary with the season
but don’t miss the bread, cheese, meats, olives and vinegars. There are also
plants, ceramics, paintings and lavender. Purple garlic is a specialty of the region in Spring. Provence is famous for its splendid
market and Saint Remy’s lively display of the community and beautiful produce on
Wednesdays is exceptional. Be sure to get there early if you need to park
nearby. The market starts around 8am and wraps up about 12.30pm.
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| Purple garlic in the Saint Remy de Provence market, France |
Van
Goph in Saint Remy de Provence
Saint
Remy has been synonymous with Vincent Van Goph since the artist spent a year in
an asylum here after chopping off part of his ear. A handsome building in town
houses the Centre d’Art Presence that displays reproductions of his work but
the real place of pilgrimage for serious Van Goph fans is St Paul du Mausolee,
the asylum in which the artist resided. The facility has recreated Van Goph’s
room and it is thrilling for fans to recognise the subjects of his paintings.
In a place of such beauty it is easy to understand how Van Goph created almost
150 paintings during his year here. The facility still operates for mental
health patients but most of the second floor is dedicated to Van Goph.
Van
Goph walk
A
less confronting Van Goph experience is the walking tour set up by the tourist office.
The one-kilometre walk in, around and out of town is lined with panels
depicting Van Goph’s paintings in the surroundings that inspired him. A map
guiding you around the trail is available from the tourist office and the walk
leads from the heart of town out towards Glanum.
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| Panel on the Van Goph walk around Saint Remy de Provence, France |
Roman
ruins
The
Roman town of Glanum was established around 6BC and when it was abandoned
around 260AD, residents settled in Saint Remy de Provence, making it one of the
oldest towns in France. Glanum is a fascinating ancient cultural site. It was
discovered in the 1920s and it is possible to walk along the main street of
this ancient site and visit the market place and Roman baths. Archaeologists
continue to uncover more of the settlement and believe there may be up to five
times more than the area they have uncovered so far, so it is growing every
day!
Have
you been to Saint Remy de Provence? What did you most enjoy?
Photo credits: Martin, Ming-ye Hsu
