At 5:30am, and against every natural wish of my lazy lazy body, I got up in the cold Northern Territory desert pre-dawn to watch the sun rise over Uluru. I wore all the clothing I had with me; it reminded me of winter mornings in the UK. I was surprised how cold the desert was, despite knowing that deserts experience extremes of heat. I made my cold and numb way through the silent campsite, in the dark, to the meeting point. I had opted to go on a tour, which is unlike me, but the price of a hire car and my lack of local knowledge made a tour a…